snaps40

Slammin' the AMT 40 Ford coupe
Project started March 8, 2006
The goal for this model is to end up with a low sleek lead-sled customized hot rod as it could have been in the 60's. No Billit, or airbags, or futuristic body mods. Just low and with a chopped to the max top, filled in rear side windows yet keeping a full size rear window

Part 1
I started by thinking I would just cobble the undercarriage . Before I did too much damage, I thought it might be better to try to do it as it was done in the old days which was using longer spring shackles. That involved too much detail, so here's what I ended up doing to simulate that.

First, with the razor saw, I sliced the two trailing arms (not too sure if that's the right term for them) from the backing plates on the rear end assembly. I then reglued them even with the bottom edge of the backing plates, using weights and a grid to keep them square. Fig1.

fig 1 Fig 2

Next, with the razor saw again, I carefully sliced the spring hangers from the rear of the backing plates, keeping the tabs, which will be needed to glue them back on. Using the weights and grid again, I reglued them flush with the bottom of the backing plates, just like I did the trailing arms (fig 2). Here's a more level view.(fig 3)
Fig 3

Be smarter than me and wait until this assembly is dry to test fit it. After I reglued it and waited this time, I found out that the spring perch had to be relieved to clear the differential housing (FIG 4). And then I find out that the tunnel needs to be hogged out a little to clear the driveshaft (fig 5) . When that's done, the assembly should set in place with the spring hangers resting on the shock castings on the side of the frame (fig 6) just like it would have at the stock height.

Fig 4 Fig 5

Fig 6

Back when I was first thinking about just cobbling this together, I had recessed the frame sides (fig7) so that the fender piece would be flush with the frame piece (fig 8 ). I figured I would gain a little lowering this way. How this will effect something further down the line, I have no idea. Guess I'll just deal with it at that time.

Fig7 Fig 8

I notched the rearmost cross piece to clear the plastic right behind the gastank (fig 7a) and also raised the notches for the bumper brackets a little. Now, the rear of the fender assembly is also flush with the frame assembly. (fig 8a)

( Fig 7a )

( Fig 8a )

Lowering the front brought up some problems. Some time back, I bought a kit in a baggie and found out that the body and fender assy came from 2 different brands/models and they didn't fit together. So, I just cobbled it together (Fig 9). One thing I learned from that is that there is no tire allowence inside the fenderwells for the car to be lowered as far as I wanted it. First, then, on the new model, is to hog out as much of the thick plastic on the inside of the fenders as you can, for tire clearance. I didn't have a dropped axle with the first one so I ended up slicing a part out of the middle of the stock axle (to help get the tires inside the fender wells ). and mounted it up in the cross member without a spring. Cobbled, but got the drop I wanted. I'm hoping to get a tad more sophisticated on this new model. After a bunch of fitting, I notched the dropped axle piece so that there was only 1 spring leaf showing (Fig 10), and clipped off the shock studs so that they touched the cast shock arms on the frame. The solid axle rod that came with the kit wasn't going to work now (Fig 11), it won't clear the frame. Later, I'll have to go with two short studs to attach the final wheels to the axle.

(fig 9)	(fig 10)
(fig 11)	(Fig 12)

Mocked up the thing to see how she'll set (Fig 12). I think I'd like this stance to be a little lower in the back, but not much. Basically, tho, I have the stance I want.

I wanted dual exhausts, So, I ground off the cast muffler and exhaust pipe that was on the frame. I painted the frame and while it was drying and I was cleaning up the area a little, I discovered that there was another muffler and exhaust pipe supplied with the kit. Duh. But I'm committed, and so, turned a couple of Cherry Bomb glaspacks out of some sprue material and with some pieces of solder made the new exhaust system. I seldom detail the undercarriage. I build for shelf appeal - not contests. But at least, this will show some extra effort. Installed the rear axle at this time. I'll tip those solder ends with aluminum tubing later. (fig 13)
mufflers

(Fig 13)

Part 2

This is probably redundant, But I plan to french the headlights. All I do is glue in the frames and will fill with Bondo automotive glaze and putty. I like this for shallow fills. The tape inside the lens opening will remain until after all of the painting is done. It will provide a reflective backing for the lens. Crummy foto
french

Now to get serious. 1/4 inch masking tape is used to mark off the chop on the sides. I have also marked the piece that will be cut out and replaced to again realign the window corner after the top is moved forward following the chop. ( fig 14). I have continued that tape around the back corner and marked the lower edge. Notice it touching the corners of the rear windows. Also a 1/8 inch tape was laid 1/8 inch below the rear windows and marked as shown. (Fig 15)
Note: I will cut BELOW the drip rail instead of above as marked

( Fig 14 )

( Fig 15)

Another view (fig 16 ). Now I lay a piece of tape across the top with the edge even with the top line of the side cut (fig (17) and mark the lower edge. The area shown as dashes will NOT get cut.

( Fig 16 )

( Fig 17 )

here is the top all marked off (fig 18 ) Next will be biting the bullet and start the cutting.
chop5

( Fig 18 )

Top is cut and side pillars are removed. I've tried to mock the top in it's original position to kinda give a visual of the results (fig 19 )

( Fig 19 )

( Fig 19a )

(FIG 19a) I'm jumping backward here. Fig 19a is showing how I underscored inside the roof where I will bend the window outward to meet the trunk lid. I don't want to break it off. After the next steps it looks pretty good, so I ran a bead of Super Glue Gel in the underscore to help it not break off (english 101). That's why I'm jumping back, to recommend that the cut across the roof here be postponed and the B pillar (door corners) cut out now. Notice, also, in (fig 24) that I had to cut away some of the roof section that had curved down in back of the rear windows. There's a lot of handling involved there, and this section is not too strong after rhe roof is sliced half across.
After making the roof cuts, I find out that before I was expelled from Hi school, I shoulda flunked 2 years of geometry instead of 2 years of algebra. Appears I have to remove triangular sections (marked in black) on the lower side corners ( Figs 20 & 21), and some more of the deck lid.

( Fig 20 ) above ( Fig 21, right )

With those corners removed, it doesn't appear to be too bad at all. I'm glad I didn't take more off of the deck lid, this is almost perfect. Just a
teeny bit of trimming and its better than I hoped. for (fig22 & 23).

( Fig 22 )

( Fig 23 )

Next session, I'll reposition the door corner pieces and see if I can help those those curves on the sides where the slice is. I am planning on filling in those rear side windows.

Now, I've carefully cut the door corners from the roof section and I forgot to photograph them before I moved on. (Fig 24). I followed the drip rail all of the way back to the cutoff instead of stopping at the door edge as I had marked it, and I have backed the area up with thin styrene. We're not just slapping a kit together here, so there will be areas, at times, in this type of build, that will try your patience. Having that flat styrene back there will help position the door corners. The rear window openings will be filled in with plastic and filler. Note in ( fig 25 ), that I had to put a thin filler piece in the right pillar to get the same opening size as on the driver side.

( Fig 24 )

( Fig 25)

A pillars are pinned in place ( I like to have more than a glue joint at these points), top is secured all the way around and all that's left
of this stage is to fill the gaps with plastic and body filler, sand, prime, sand, prime etc. Be back when something interesting happens.

3/22/06 - I have separated the fenders from the inner fenderwell on the fender assembly ( fig 26), reasoning that I want to be able to insert the interior assembly after the fenders are molded to the body and all the painting is done. ( fig 26) also shows the tabs I have affixed to the inner peice that will allow me to attach the body assembly back on. (fig 27 shows the fender and body pieces temporarily repositioned. Notice I have left the outer edge of the running boards on to hold things in alignment until I get the fenders and body pinned and glued together and the yellow piece of scrap plastic that temporarily holds the front fenderwells in place.

( fig 26 )

( Fig 27 )

(fig 28)
The fenders glued and pinned in place. running board will now be completely removed.

While things are drying, I pondered how to get some old school teardrop bubble skirts. Looking for something with some contour, I thought I might try a recently emptied Windex bottle. This location gives me a concave surface with a little curve in at the top. I used this spot on opposite sides of the bottle to give me a right and a left. ( Figs 29, 30, 31). ( Fig 32 ) shows how the body is coming along at this point.

( fig 29 )	( Fig 30 )
( Fig 31 )	( fig 32 )

Getting the final mating of chassis with the body assy correct, I had to do some fine tuning on the inner fender wells and also discovered that, somehow, I lost my drop in the front! As I stated earlier, I build mostly for shelf appearance and not contests, so I'm not above a little cheating. In (Fig 33) you can see that I drilled a hole above the axle slot in the backing plate to mount the wheels and get my drop back. (Fig 34) shows the rolling chassis. I still haven't tested the fit with the interior yet. I suppose I ought to do that pretty soon.
240axlecheat

. ( fig 33 ) ( fig 34 )

( Fig 35 )

( fig 36 )

3/ 24/06 - Still workin on the body. Making some molded exhaust pipe openings (fig 35) I ordered some neat looking blue-dot taillights but as soon as I did, I spied the 49 Merc taillight lens in my junk box. Before I gave it a 2nd thought, I poked holes in the rear fenders.(Fig 36). Now I'm committed. :o(

4/5/'06 - Been sanding, puttying, sanding, filling, etc. The hood is looking humongous, so I pie cut about a 1/16 " sliver out of it. (Fig 37). Silhouette of front looks a little better, now (fig 38 ). Taillights are looking crappy (Fig 39)and (fig 40), but I'm going to live with it. May need only 1 more final sanding. I've been working on wheels, interior, etc. Should be painting soon.

( Fig37 )

( Fig 38 )

( Fig 39 ) 240primerear

( Fig 40 )

I knew the minute I cut those holes for the Merc tail lights that I had made a mistake ! Don't like what happened, so I tore them out. Those tubes will hold the new scratched Blue-dots. I have a set of nice ones ordered, but I can't wait and I'll be making my own

Fig 41

Fig 42

Fig 43

I started by wrapping a fine wire around a drill bit to fit the inside of the tubes I have prepared for the tunneled blue-dot
taillights (fig 41). Then I made a smaller one for the blue dot (fig 42). It was easier to put a drop of red paint on a nonstick backing paper from a sanding disk, and then position the wire circles on that. Then a little dab of blue in the inner circle (fig 43).
When the paint had dried, I put just enough mixed epoxy glue on each so it would be slightly rounded after it flowed out and dried. Viola, blue-dots.

Fig 44

Fig 45

Installed the tunnels, fixed the mess the merc setup made, and frenched in a license plate area.. This is much better, I have my 40 Ford identity back (Figs 44 & 45). Next photo (mock up), I have put the skirts on and am ready to prepare for paint.
340prime

I really like this in black primer, but this baby was meant for FLAMES

Paint it
I mixed a light yellow for the car's color. I'm using One Shot sign enamel. because I'm planning to clear this with an
automotive catalyzed clear, I'm adding a drop of the hardner to every color I'll be using. I have cleared before without doing this, but it has to be very carefully done, for the tendancy to 'lift' or 'craze' the enamel is there.

Now I mixed a transparent blue using tinting clear and a little blue. I free hand sprayed some basic flame shapes. This is merely under painting (below).

left - I have added some more underpainting, this time I used imitation gold and I've started using some hand held masks.

below - I made these out of stencil plastic. This new batch has tootpicks glued to them to aid in holding and to reduce bieng blown around by air pressure. Last time they flopped around like a fish out ot water.

I have made more flames with Rubrum Red, kind a pinkish dull red. It's much brighter than I want. Hopefully I can pull the job out with the final flame colors. In the shot on the right, below, I oversprayed it all with a transparent red mix to try and pull all of this underpainting together. In real © Trufire, candies are used for these (supposedly) subtle underlayers. My system worked pretty good for me on a black model. But it's pretty garish and too much on this yellow. I'll remember this next time.

Maybe I shoulda went with traditional flames. Next session, I'll see if I can save this mess

I decided that I couldn't save this mess after all, so I put my base yellow back over most of it. One of my mistakes was putting a transparent blue over yellow. It makes green. I used a purple this time. The following are the steps I took to redo it. The procedure is about the same as above. I did a little touching up at the end with a fine brush (#1 American Painter - 4050 script)

Color stages are Orange, Transparent Purple, Orange again, lighter Oranges mixed withyellow, and finally, tipped with light yellowish white. I cleaned up some of my oversprat with my base yellow ( when I mixed this yellow, I saved enough to do some final touching up).A little more touching up with the brush and it's ready for clear even tho it's a little dissapointing.

Several coats of clear, waited a few days and then wet sanded with 400 grit. Looks a lot better, but the trunk and hood looked kinda plain. So, with a protective coat of clear, I decided to push the envelope and try some pinstriping. Black was ok because I could make some minor corrections, But the golden orange I mixed had to be done very carefully. One mistake over the semi-fresh black and I would be screwed. I got lucky. for those who may want to know, I used a #2 quill thast is os old it only has a fraction of the original hairs left. Pinstriping looks a little large, but hey, no decals were harmed during this build.

Now, maybe, I'm ready for final clearing and assembly.

Back to snaps page